Shelves & Shelving Units

A depth of 10–12 inches fits most books, while 14–16 inches handles oversized art books, records and storage bins. Shelves spanning more than about 32 inches may sag under a full load of books unless they are thick hardwood or metal, so check the support spacing if you plan to fill them.

Combine upright books with small horizontal stacks, leave about a third of each shelf open, repeat colors across different shelves and zigzag larger objects so the eye travels across the unit. Use baskets or bins on lower shelves to corral everyday items, and keep the most personal pieces at eye level, where they will actually be noticed.

Combine upright books with small horizontal stacks, leave about a third of each shelf open, repeat colors across different shelves and zigzag larger objects so the eye travels across the unit. Use baskets or bins on lower shelves to corral everyday items, and keep the most personal pieces at eye level, where they will actually be noticed.

Yes. Anchor any bookcase taller than it is wide, especially with kids at home who may climb it. Most come with an anti-tip kit; secure it into a stud, or use anchors rated for your wall if no stud is in reach. Keep heavier books on the lower shelves so the center of gravity stays low.

Open shelving shows off books and objects and keeps a room feeling light, but it collects dust and reveals clutter. Glass doors protect books while keeping them visible, and solid doors hide everyday items. A unit with closed cabinets below and open shelves above often strikes the best balance. Glass doors work well in dining rooms too.

Yes. Open-backed shelving divides a space while letting light through, which suits open floor plans and studio apartments. Choose a unit finished on both sides and secure it to the floor or ceiling if it stands away from a wall. Keep heavy items low and leave some shelves partly open so the divide doesn't feel solid.